Woman Around Town: Posted on March 17, 2022 by Carolyn Swartz in Dining Around

After decades of unscientific observation, I’ve come to the consolation that most people are either cooks or bakers. (I know: Julia. Martha. Ina. But I’m talking about regular people.) Me, I’m a cook. Occasionally I manage a barely acceptable tart or batch of rustic rugelach, but a recent attempt at chocolate chip cookies produced this:

I think I know why. Baking, you have to follow directions or at least understand the science. Cooking, on the other hand, is improvisational. Forgiving. No measurement, no single ingredient is make-it-or-break it. Once you get the hang of a basic technique, you can take it just about anywhere you want. By “anywhere” I mean around the world—right in your own kitchen.  
 
A good example of a recipe that’s forgiving and easy to riff on: Julia Moskin’s flattened chicken thighs, published in the New York Times a few years ago. The technique is simple: pace the thighs skin-side down in a heavy (cast-iron) pan. After a minute or two, place similarly sized (cast iron) pan directly onto the thighs, and weigh it down with a kettle filled with water.

After about 15 minutes of pleasant sizzling, remove the top pan, flip the thighs over and cook uncovered for another five to 10. And you’re done. (If you need more time to prepare side dishes, the cooked thighs will be fine in a slow oven for up to 15 minutes. Thighs are delicious. (Julia Child preferred them over breasts.) Yes, they have more fat. But in this recipe, much of that fat is rendered and can be removed tossed. leaving great texture and flavor while giving you permission to indulge guilt-free in the crisp, delicious skin.

Since Julia Moskin’s recipe has a few more complicated steps—like lifting the skin to place chopped garlic underneath. In my adaptation, the garlic is added later. Ms. Moskin calls for thyme. I prefer rosemary. But you can any tarragon or any herb or herb combinations you like.   

Flattened Chicken Thighs with Rosemary and Lemon
Serves 4

Ingredients

•  4 chicken thighs, with skin and on the bone
• 2 tablespoon olive oil
• 2 or 3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• 1 tablespoon fresh herb(s) of choice, or 1 teaspoon dried: rosemary, thyme, or tarragon
• 3/4 lemon, cut into very thin slices pressed in a kitchen towel.

1. Preheat oven to 325°F
2. Dry chicken thighs with paper towels, then salt and pepper generously on both sides. If there’s excess skin, just tuck it over on the other side.
3. Place a 9-inch cast-iron pan (or the heaviest pan you have) over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil. When oil is hot and fragrant, add chicken thighs, skin side down. Let sizzle for 1–2 minutes, then cover with a second same-sized pan weighted with a full kettle of water.
4. Listen for a nice, steady sizzle. Let the thighs cook for about 15 minutes. Remove the weight and top pan. If the thighs lift easily, revealing a crisp, golden skin, they’re done on that side. (If not yet, replace the pan and weight and let them cook a few minutes more.)
5. When the thighs are crisp and golden on the skin side, flip them over. Using a baster or spoon, tilt the pan and remove most, but not all, of the rendered fat. Add the chopped garlic, herb(s) and (optional) lemon slices around, but not on top of, the thighs. Cook for about 5–10 minutes, uncovered, over medium heat. Serve immediately with rice, a salad, and a colorful vegetable.
   

Thai-ish Flattened Thighs:

• 2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
• 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced into dime-thin rounds
• 1 long stalk of lemongrass, sliced into 4-inch lengths
• 2 lime leaves (opt., available at Asian Markets) 1/2 can of low or full-fat coconut milk 
• 1 teaspoon of Tom Ka Kai paste thinned with a little water. 
• Coarsely chopped cilantro (for garnish)

Using vegetable, not olive oil,  cook the thighs, skin side down, according to steps 1-5 of the recipe above. Then add;

After the skin-side-down cooking, flip the thighs and remove most, but not all, of the fat. Add the chopped garlic and ginger, the lemongrass and lime leaves, and cook over medium heat, uncovered, about 10 minutes. Whether you’re adding coconut milk, Tom Ka Kai paste mixed with water (or both), be careful pour the liquid carefully around, not on top of, the crisped skin. Simmer for another 5 minutes and serve immediately with rice, or place in a 250° oven for up to 15 minutes.

Indian-ish Flattened Thighs:

Follow steps 1–5 in the master recipe, using vegetable, not olive, oil. Then add: 

• 2’-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped or grated
• 1 stick cinnamon
• 2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
• 1 tablespoon (or more, to taste) ground Indian spices* or 1 teaspoon curry powder
• A few pods of cardamom, if you have them
• 1 cup plain yogurt, thinned with 1-2 Tbsps. of water

After the skin-side-down cooking flip the thighs over and remove most, but not all, of the fat. Add the chopped garlic and ginger, and cook over medium heat, uncovered, 5–10 minutes.

Mix the ground spices into 1 cup of thinned yogurt and add the mixture to the pan, being careful not to pour it directly onto the now skin-side-up thighs.  If you need to, place in a 250° oven, uncovered, for 10–15 minutes.

* Feel free to mix and match ground Indian spices like turmeric, cumin, chaat masala, o rcoriander to taste.