Woman Around Town: Posted on March 17, 2022 by Carolyn Swartz in Dining Around
After decades of unscientific observation, I have come to the conclusion that people are either cooks or bakers, but rarely both. (Okay. Julia. Martha. Ina. I’m talking about regular people, okay?) Me, I’m a cook. I occasionally manage a respectable tart or a batch of rustic rugelach. But just a few weeks ago, a foray into chocolate chip cookies produced this:
I know why. Baking, you have to follow directions, or at least understand the science. Cooking, on the other hand, is improvisational. Forgiving. No measurement, no single ingredient is make-it-or-break it. Once you get the hang of a basic technique, you can take it just about anywhere you want. By “anywhere” I mean around the world—right in your own kitchen.
A good example of a recipe that’s forgiving and easy to riff on: Julia Moskin’s flattened chicken thighs, published in the New York Times a few years ago. The technique is simple: cook thighs skin-side down between two cast-iron pans—weighing the top pan with a kettle filled with water.
After about 15 minutes of pleasant sizzling, remove the top pan, flip the thighs over and cook uncovered for another five to 10. And you’re done. (If you need more time to prepare side dishes, you can put the thighs into a slow-ish oven for up to 15 minutes.
Thighs are delicious. (Julia Child way preferred them over breasts) Yes, they have more fat. But in this recipe, much of that fat is rendered and tossed. leaving great texture and flavor and giving you permission to indulge guilt-free, therefore, in the crisp, delicious skin.
Since Julia Moskin’s recipe has a few more complicated steps—like lifting the skin to place chopped garlic underneath—I’ll give you my adaptation. Don’t worry, the garlic is there, too. Ms. Moskin calls for thyme. I prefer rosemary. But you can also use tarragon—or, for that matter, any herb or combination of herbs you like
Flattened Chicken Thighs with Rosemary and Lemon,
Serves 4
- 4 chicken thighs, with skin and on the bone
- 2 tablespoon olive oil
- 2 or 3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
- 2 teaspoons kosher salt
- ½ teaspoon ground pepper, or to taste
- 1 tablespoon fresh herb(s) of choice, or 1 teaspoon dried: rosemary, thyme, or tarragon
- ¾ lemon (optional) in very thinly slices wrung out in a kitchen towel
- Preheat oven to 325°F
- Dry chicken thighs with paper towels, then salt and pepper generously on both sides. If there’s excess skin, just tuck it over on the other side.
- Place an 9-inch cast-iron pan (or the heaviest pan you have) over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil. When oil is hot and fragrant, add chicken thighs, skin side down. Let sizzle for 1–2 minutes, then cover with a second same-sized pan weighted with a full kettle of water.
- Listen for a nice, steady sizzle. Let the thighs cook for about 15 minutes. Remove the weight and top pan. If the thighs lift easily, revealing a crisp, golden skin, they’re done on that side. (If not yet, replace the pan and weight and let them cook a few minutes more.)
- When the thighs are crisp and golden on the skin side, flip them over. Using a baster or spoon, tilt the pan and remove most, but not all, of the rendered fat. Add the chopped garlic, herb(s) and (optional) lemon slices around, but not on top of, the thighs. Cook for about 5–10 minutes, uncovered, over medium heat. Serve immediately with rice, a salad, and a colorful vegetable.
Thai-ish Variation on Flattened Thighs
Using vegetable, not olive oil, prepare and cook the thighs, skin side down, according to steps 1-5 of the recipe above. You’ll also need:
- 2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
- 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced into dime-thin rounds
- 1 long stalk of lemongrass, sliced into 4-inch lengths
- 2 lime leaves (available at Asian Markets)
- 1/2 can of low or full-fat coconut milk
- 1 teaspoon of Tom Ka Kai paste thinned with a little water.
- Coarsely chopped cilantro (for garnish)
LOW FAT HACK:- If you don’t want to use coconut milk and don’t have lemongrass and lime leaves on hand, incase the amount of Tom Ka Kai paste to 1+ Tablespoon and I promise it be delicious and taste authentic. (See note below.)
- After the skin-side-down cooking, flip the thighs and remove most, but not all, of the fat.
- Add the chopped garlic and ginger, the lemongrass and lime leaves, and cook over medium heat, uncovered, about 10 minutes.
- Whatever liquid you’re adding – coconut milk or Tom Ka Kai paste mixed with water (or both) – pour the liquid carefully around, not on top of, the crisped skin. Simmer for another 5 minutes and serve immediately with rice, or place in a 250 ° oven for up to 15 minutes.
Note: Excellent hacks in pastes and sauces are a hallmark of Asian cooking, and this is one of them. Tom Ka Kai paste is made with shallots, kaffir lime leaf, galangal, lemon grass, garlic and coconut milk. It’s available on Amazon and at Asian markets.
Indian-ish Variation of Flattened Thighs
Follow steps 1–5 in the master recipe, using vegetable, not olive, oil. You’ll also need:
- 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped or grated
- 1 stick cinnamon
- 2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
- 1 tablespoon (or more, to taste) ground Indian spices* or 1 teaspoon curry powder
- A few pods of cardamom, if you have them
- 1 cup plain yogurt, thinned with 1 tablespoon water
1. After the skin-side-down cooking flip the thighs over and remove most, but not all, of the fat
2. Add the chopped garlic and ginger, and cook over medium heat, uncovered, 5–10 minutes.
3. Mix the ground spices into 1 cup of thinned yogurt and add the mixture to the pan, being careful not to pour it directly onto the now skin-side-up thighs. If you need to, place in a 250° oven, uncovered, for 10–15 minutes.
* You can mix and match ground Indian spices like turmeric, cumin, chaat masala, coriander and mustard powder to equal about a tablespoon (go easy on this).